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SOME LESSER KNOWN 
ARCHITECTURE OF LONDON 





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SOME LESSER KNOWN 
MeOCHITECTURE OF 
LONDON 


By JAMES BURFORD, A.R.I.B.A. 
AND 


J. D. M. HARVEY, B.A. 


NEW YORK 
WILLIAM HELBURN, INC. 


418 MADISON AVENUE 
1926 





Press, PL : 


The Mayflower 








FOREWORD 


N selecting the illustrations for this book we have 

thought it wise, with regard to its scope, to exclude 

ecclesiastical buildings; and since the later Georgian 
Architecture has been so adequately dealt with in recent 
publications we have restricted our choice, for the most 
part, to the work of earlier days. 

Whilst we are conscious of some slight omissions, we 
would plead for them the exigencies of weather and oppor- 
tunity. At the same time we desire to thank those. who 
have given permission and afforded facilities for photo- 
graphing buildings in their care or possession, and without 
whose co-operation many of the illustrations could not have 


been made. 
JAMES BURFORD, 
J. D. M. HARVEY. 
STAPLE INN, LONDON, 
October, 1925. 














ister PEA TES 


WELL Hatt Farm, WELL HALL. Frontispiece. 


1. THE Manor House. BLACKHEATH. 
2. CUPOLA ON THE STABLES OF THE RANGER’S HOUSE. BLACKHEATH. 
3. HOUSES ON THE BUTTS. BRENTFORD. 
4. Pump Court. THE TEMPLE. 
5. Kinc’s BeNcH WaLK. THE TEMPLE, 
6. THE Doorway or LAMB BUILDING. ‘THE TEMPLE. 
7. ‘THE CourT. STAPLE INN. 
8. THE Hatt Doorway. StTape INN. 
9g. ‘THE CENTRAL PAVILION OF A COLONNADE. 'THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 
10. ‘THE END PAVILION OF A COLONNADE. 'THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 
11. ‘THE INTERIOR OF A COLONNADE. 'THE FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 
12. HE ORDNANCE BUILDING. ‘THE ‘TOWER OF LONDON. 
13. HOusES ON ‘TOWER GREEN. 'THE TOWER OF LONDON. 
14. ‘THE MartTIN Tower. 'THE TOWER OF LONDON. 
15. A SHop Doorway. 'TOWER STREET. 
16. A LAMP STANDARD. ‘TOWER HILL. 
17. ‘THE Door oF A HOUSE ON THE GREEN. STEPNEY. 
18. THE TRINITY ALMsHOUSES: AN END GABLE. STEPNEY. 
19. "THE TRINITY ALMSHOUSES ; THE CENTRE OF THE EasT BLOCK. STEPNEY. 
20. FIGURES ON THE CHARITY SCHOOL OF ST. JOHN OF WAPPING. WAPPING. 


21. No. 6 CHEYNE WALK. CHELSEA. 


22. WALPOLE HOUSE ON THE MALL. CHISWICK. 

23. THE Bripce, Kinc JOHN’s PaLace. ELTHAM. 
24. ‘THE CHANCELLOR’S LODGING. ELTHAM. 

25. [HE CHANCELLOR’s LODGING. ELTHAM. 

26. ‘THE Door oF A HOUSE ON THE COMMON. Ham. 
27. Houses IN CHURCH Row. HAMPSTEAD. . 


28. Houses IN CHuRcH Row. HAMPSTEAD. 


29. A Door 1In CuurcH Row. HAMPSsTEaD. 

30. A Door IN CuuRcH Row. HAMPSTEAD. 

31. THE GARDEN House at “ THE SPANIARDS.” HAMPSTEAD. 
32. A House IN THE GROVE. HIGHGATE. 

33. CROMWELL House. HIGHGATE. 

34. CROMWELL House: THE ENTRANCE GATEWAY. HIGHGATE. 


LIST OR SPEATES 


Doucias HovusE. PETERSHAM. 

DoucLas HousE: THE DooRWAY. PETERSHAM. 
Dovucias House: THE STABLES, PETERSHAM. 
MONTROSE HOUSE. PETERSHAM. 

MontTrROSE House: THE PorcH. PETERSHAM. 
RICHMOND PALACE. RICHMOND. 

Maips oF Honour Row. RICHMOND. 

HOovusEs ON THE GREEN. RICHMOND. 

Door OF A HOUSE IN OLD PALACE PLACE. RICHMOND. 
Door OF A HOUSE ON THE GREEN. RICHMOND. 
Door OF A HOUSE IN PARADISE ROAD. RICHMOND. 
Door OF A HOUSE IN THE SHEEN ROAD. RICHMOND, 
ORMOND Roap. RICHMOND. 

A House in Cuurcu STREET. STOKE NEWINGTON. 
A GATE-PIER IN LINCOLN’s INN FIELDS. 

A GATE-PIER AT HAM House. PETERSHAM. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. CHEYNE WALK, CHELSEA. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE, CHEYNE WALK, CHELSEA. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. CHEYNE WALK, CHELSEA. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATES. CHEYNE WALK, CHELSEA. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. WALPOLE HOUSE, CHISWICK. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATES. GROVE HOUSE, CHISWICK. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. GROVE HOoUsE, CHISWICK. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. Ham COMMON. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. CHURCH ROw, HAMPSTEAD. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. 'THE GROVE, HIGHGATE. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. SOUTH GROVE, HIGHGATE. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. SHEEN ROAD, RICHMOND. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATE. STEPNEY GREEN. 
WROUGHT-IRON GATES. ST. JOHN OF WAPPING. 
MeEmoriAL Toms. ST. JOHN OF WAPPING. 
MEMORIAL ‘TOMB. ST. MARGARET’S, LEE. 
MeEmorIAL Toms. ST. MARGARET’S, LEE. 
MemoriaAL Toms. ST. MARGARET’S, LEE. 
MEMORIAL ‘TOMB. ST. MARGARET’S, LEE. 
GRAVESTONE. ST. MARGARET’S, LEE. 


SOME LESSER KNOWN 
ARCHITECTURE OF LONDON 


LL roads lead to London Town. But the pilgrim 

Aw journeys along them will be little rewarded 

by a sight of old buildings at his journey’s end. 

The Great Fire swept most away, and perhaps—when all is 

said, that was not an unkindly, certainly a sanitative, fate. 

And of what was left the hand of the builder and the zeal of 
the improver have spared but little. 

Here and there, about the City, near Cannon Street or 
Cheapside, a Hall of a City Company or an old house or two, 
‘dating from Restoration days, still stands woebegone, in the 
temporary security of a by-street. ‘Though their glory is 
departed they still vaunt bravely a rare door or consoled 
hood, and hide from the curious all that is left of a carved 
stair, of a some time wealth of panelled rooms. There is such 
a house in Lawrence Pountney Hill, and another, with carved 
doorway back and front, in a turning off Mark Lane. There 
is a house with a neat red brick facade, with broad white- 
sashed windows, much retired in a small court near Tower 
Street, and very prosperous in the hands of a City Wine- 
merchant. There is a room in Fleet Street with an intricate 
- plaster ceiling and panelling of ‘Tudor times. 

Of the old shop-fronts of London a passing word must be 
9 


SOME LESSER KNOWN 


said. A few are left—that is, afew of merit. There is, of course, 
Birch’s, opposite the Royal Exchange, famous for its Alder- 
manic Turtle ; there is the Tobacconist’s in the Haymarket, 
too well known to need description ; the Newsagent’s in 
Deane Street, with its baroque 
panels and original lettering 
on the name board ; there is 
the old shop in ‘Tower Street, 
very Greek ; and, best of all, 
with its columns and car- 
touches and thick glazing bars, 
the Grocer’s shop in Artillery 
Lane, Spitalfields. A few years 
gt Sy ea ag ut anr{ ago there were more. These 
i & : old shops have a sad way of 
disappearing. 

Of the old Coaching Inns, 


once so many—and well 





‘‘THE GEORGE,” SOUTHWARK 


famed in song and story— 
nothing is left to tell of former days but a part of “‘ The 
George,” in Southwark High Street. It is still pleasant 
enough, with its long rows of sashed windows and its tiers 
of columned balconies with chambermaids tripping along 
them, as they have tripped these many years. ‘There is a 


IO 


ARCHITECTURE OF LONDON 


retrospective clatter of horses’ hooves on the cobbled yard, 
the ghostly shout of ghostly ostlers, the crack of a spectral 
whip, a rumble of phantom wheels, and there, but for the 
Grace of God, goes the Stage Coach on the Dover Road. 

But whatever be the fate of the Inns of hospitality, the 
Inns of Court, legal and most delectable retreats, are with us 
still. A turn through an arched gateway, or a covered passage, 
and we leave the noise of busy streets and the bustle of the 
pavement. The very quietness lends a vague awe, a sense 
of prying trespass. But we can take our pleasure in a fancied 
cloak of borrowed learning, and amuse an idle hour pacing 
the sheltered courts, conversing with the solemn shades 
of our pretended predecessors. 

But with the Inns of Chancery Time has dwelt hardly. 
Of the original nine how little is left !_ Staple Inn still stands. 
Clifford’s Inn is a sorry sight and up for sale. ‘There is just 
enough of the Hall of Barnard’s Inn to be sadly reminiscent. 
The rest are no more. 

** Staple Inn was the Inne or Hostell of the Merchants of 
the Staple (as the Tradition is), wherewith until I can learne 
better matter, concerning the antiquity and foundation there- 
of, I must rest satisfied. But for latter matters I cannot 
choose but make report, and much to the prayse and com- 


mendation of the Gentlemen of this House, that they have 
II 


SOME LESSER KNOWN 


bestowed great costs in the new-building a fayre Hall of 
brick, and two parts of the Outward Courtyards, besides 
other lodging in the garden and elsewhere, and have thereby 
made it the fayrest Inne of Chauncery in this Universitie.” 
So says Sir George Buc, in Howe’s edition of his work, 
published in 1631. 

Not far away, in Guilford Street, is the Foundling 
Hospital, founded in 1739 by Captain ‘Thomas Coram, and 
designed by Theodore Jacobson, the architect of the Royal 
Hospital at Gosport. An old copy of the Gentleman’s 
Magazine—that celebrated repository of information of 
minor importance—has the following entry: “‘ 29 March, 
1741. ‘The orphans received into the Hospital were bap- 
tised there—some nobility of the first rank standing godfathers 
and godmothers. The first male was named Thomas Coram, 
and the first female Eunice Coram, after the first promoter 
of that charity and his wife. The most robust boys being 
designed for the sea service were named Drake, Norris, 
Blake, etc., after our most famous admirals.”” The building 
is severe and impressive, contains a suite of fine rooms, and 
is very well set at the end of a spacious forecourt which 
gains a distinction, and no little charm, from the long 
colonnades which go round three sides of it, ending very 
pleasantly in pavilions with lantern-lights atop. 

12 


ARCHITECTURE OF LONDON 


London, east of the Tower, is to many a dim tale or 
mystery and imagination, but it holds little to fulfil the 
expectations of the searcher for old buildings. Its chief 
Treasure, and that no mean one, is the Trinity Almshouses 
in the Mile End Road. There is a rare flavour about these 
little buildings—part nautical, with the stone ships on the 
gable ends and the flagmast in the turfed Court; part 
Dutch, with the small red bricks and the big hoods and 
carved brackets above the narrow doors. 

Hard by, on Stepney Green—now fallen from its high 
estate—are a few houses of some worth. One of them still 
has a grand air—keeps up appearances as it were—with a 
tall door with a shell-like hood above, a long flight of steps 
below, and a wrought-iron garden gate which was once fine, 
and is still interesting. 

Then there is Wapping—‘‘ Wapping in the Wose,” as 
Stow calls it, “‘ signifying as much,” says Strype, “ as in the 
Wash or in the Drain.” It was the scene of Execution Dock, 
“ the usual place of execution for hanging of pirates and sea- 
rovers at the low water-mark, and there to remain till three 
tides had overflowed them ” (Stow). The parish Church of 
Wapping is dedicated to Saint John, and close by it are 
the Charity Schools, founded in 1695 for sixty boys and 
_ fifty girls—a plain brick building enlivened with two coloured 
13 


SOME LESSER KNOWN 


statues of the scholars, a boy and a girl, in their old-fashioned 
dresses, set in niches above the entrance door. In the 
Church yard, shadowed by elms and elder trees, is a wrought- 
iron gate with a little gilt Virgin and Child in the cresting 
of it. 

There is Limehouse, with its curious, weather-boarded, 


painted buildings jutting over 


7 ] 
} 
the waterside, unsanitary and 












4 AA eee ors | 
Cfo =a Barking is chiefly famous— 
ES ir Bl at least to the architect and an- 
| a Te i an ~- Eastbury sine 
fer FIPN ae Fs But there is an old building 
Si i =H or two in its high street—all 
: el ii 4 LAO i much decayed—and until a 





= ee Pei ee 


os 


a 


’ year or so back a timbered 

Bet Court House of Elizabethan 

2.Gorn cae aera Age. Eastbury House—tradi- 

tion gives the date of 1572—is worth study for its cunning 

brickwork and its graceful chimney-shafts, but sadly placed 

on the Essex flats and little inhabited in its long history for 

fear of spooks and the river mists with their agues and ills 
that flesh is heir to. 

On the right bank, going east again, there is something 


14 


ARCHITECTURE OF LONDON 


to be found, that is not well known, at Rotherhithe, Deptford 
and Greenwich. Greenwich—famous for its Hospital, its 
Queen’s House, and, according to an old facetious guide- 
book, “ celebrated for whitebait, a delicate fish, remarkable 
for its intoxicating properties, to judge from the deportment 
of those who have taken freely of it ’’—has several minor 
attractions—architectural as distinct from gastronomic—and 
not the least of them is the brick and plaster Summer House 
attributed to Sir Cristopher Wren on the steep slope of 
Croom’s Hill. 

At Rotherhithe is a row of red brick houses of foreign 
and dilapidated mien. At Deptford is the Old Church, 
the Church House, and Albury Street. Albury Street is 
certainly one of the architectural curiosities of London. 
A narrow street, a mean street, of flat-fronted, sash- 
windowed little houses, and every street door—and here 
lies the wonder—protected by a carved hood, and every 
hood with a pair of carved brackets. There are long brackets 
and short brackets, brackets with crisp volutes and brackets 
with broad-spreading acanthus leaves, brackets with lions 
rampant, couchant, passant, with leaping cherubs and sleep- 
ing cherubs, and cherubs all heads and wings like those that 
Coleridge hoped would people Dr. Boyer’s heaven ; 1n short, 
a unique and comprehensive collection of brackets. 

15 


SOME LESSER KNOWN 


Though all roads lead to London Town, there are, when 
all is said, but few buildings that are not well known ; 
there is but little to reward a search for the obscure or 
unexpected. But reverse the journey, follow the roads out 
of ‘Town, and a different tale is told. 

A country House, close enough to be convenient, far 
enough to be rural, has been the fashion of the rich from 
time immemorable. Royal Palaces, Lords’ great Houses, 
were one time ringed about the Capital—and a great house 
must have dependencies. This is the story of Richmond, 
Hampton, Eltham, Lambeth and, perhaps, Chelsea. Then 
there were the little towns, Hammersmith, Hampstead, 
Brentford and the like, each with its suburban society, and, 
in the course of time, the city merchant needs must have 
a house at one of them. In these towns and villages we might 
expect to find, and a search is often well rewarded, the 
buildings which in their quiet way form, for the most part, 
the lesser known architecture of London. 

And what is more natural than that towns and villages 
should grow up, going westwards, on the banks of the River 
Thames. The River is their natural line of communication. 
But the penny steamers do not pay. Londoners ignore their 
river. ‘They hurry across it, but the ‘‘ broad silver highway ”’ 


is not their way home to Chelsea, to Hammersmith, to Kew; 
16 


ARCHITECTURE OF LONDON 


but then, may be, the silver has tarnished since the days of 
Sir Thomas More. 
Chelsea has been famous for many things, for its Hospital, 


its Gardens, its waterworks, its buns, its china and its 


orm 
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FURL Se 3 


OLD HOUSES, HAMMERSMITH 


‘custards. The Hospital alone remains, the rest are only names 
ormemories. Artistically it is said to have been discovered by 
Whistler, and has remained popular with artists ever since. 
But perhaps its rows of Georgian houses are as much a part 
of its attractions as its associations. Its chief architectural 

B 17 


SOME LESSER KNOWN 


interests are conveniently concentrated in Cheyne Walk, 


with a few fine houses and a row of wrought-iron gates. 








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STRAND ON THE GREEN 





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Hammersmith, west- 


wards along the River, 
holds less of interest than 
might be supposed from its 
antiquity and _ situation. 
There are still a few old 
houses along the Mall, with 
some good rooms in them, 
but for the most part given 


over to commerce or sport, 


and brooding a little sadly on the good old times. Hammer- 


smith was the site of a noble house, built by Sir Nicolas 


Crispe in the reign of 
Charles I. “On our first 
visit to these premises in 
1812,” says the Gentleman’s 
Magazine in 1822, “the 
whole were in the finest 
condition, and it is with 
great regret that we have 


to describe this once cele- 


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—— ES Sind 
patina ga : 





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STRAND ON THE GREEN 


brated mansion, not as it is, but as it was, not a vestige 


18 


ARCHITECTURE OF LONDON 


of it remaining to attest its former grandeur and mag- 
nificence.”’ 

At Hammersmith the traveller coming from Hyde Park 
Corner on the Staines Road said good-bye to security and 
prepared for the terrors of Turnham Green. A century and 
a half ago “ The Green” stretched from the river to the 
Hendon Hills on the north, from Hammersmith to Brentford 
on the west. It was haunted by foot- 
pads and highwaymen, and—perhaps 
—the ghosts of their victims too. 
Here was the special preserve of Jack 
Sheppard, John Rann, and many 
another adventurous rascal beatified 
by popular sentiment—for all they 
generally made their last public 





appearance on ‘T'yburn Tree, and 


STRAND ON THE GREEN 


made it gaily if accounts be true. 

But if Hammersmith Mall has grown commercialised 
Chiswick Mall and Strand on the Green have retained their 
old-time charm—Chiswick Mall, very genteelly retired and 
a little aloof, very properly situated with its Church at one 
end—a famous old Church, “‘ though much restored,” as 
the guide-books say. 

And so, on past Kew, to Richmond. 

4 


SOME LESSER KNOWN 


Richmond certainly grew about its Palace. The Palace 
is there in part to-day. In Old Palace Yard the rich Tudor 


brickwork and tall Queen Anne windows are very pleasantly 


contrasted. Indeed, to Queen Anne’s days, or thereabouts, 


Richmond owes its charm. There is the terrace of stiff-stand- 


ing houses with the appropriate name of Maids of Honour 






We 

‘ 
, TD ST pe i 
‘yi: ; Hy \ a ¥ t y iN 


\y ciel 


THE “TRUMPETER’S HOUSE,” 
RICHMOND 


Row. There are wrought-iron 
gates and carved cornices in 
Old Palace Place, and along 
the north side of the Green 
groups of white sashed build- 
ings with carved doorways, 
very Dutch-looking and irre- 
gularly formal. Up the Hill, 
to the left, is the pleasant 
Ormond Road, with its red 
brick fronts and _ consoled 
hoods. And there is a row 


of tidy houses, not so fine as 


in their younger days, but interesting enough for all that, 


opposite the Church. 


Across the river, at Twickenham, is Orleans Road. 


But here nothing is as it should be; every house shows 


some alteration, some incongruity, something carelessly mis- 


20 


ARCHITECTURE OF LONDON 
handled. The old buildings of London are not so many that 


we can be prodigal of their charms. 
At Hampstead things go more often than not to the other 


extreme. Hampstead is too well cared for. Its old buildings 


Sie. 


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are too consciously antique. It presumes on its Old Age. 
But it has one possession of which it may well be proud— 
Church Row. Surely this is one of the most charming 
streets in England. In a courteous and spacious Age were 
such streets built. 

21 


SOME LESSER KNOWN 


Across the Heath is the “ Spaniards’ Inn,” jutting out 
on the road very invitingly, and a garden-house, or a gazebo, 
by the side of it, with a curious chinoiserie of hood and 
railings. And so down Hampstead Lane to Highgate—quietly 
unpretentious with its tree-lined Grove, its shady walks and 
trim brick houses. On Highgate Hill is Cromwell House 
with strong bold front and intricately carved stair within. 

Of the other some time 
towns and villages in the 
North of London, Stoke 
Newington has Church 
Street, with a row of sash- 
windowed houses, like the 


Close of a cathedral city ; 





Tottenham has some old 


OLD HOUSES AT HIGHGATE 


buildings on the Green, for 
the most part in sad repair, and a curious little shop, with 
square bay windows, and a steep flight of steps to the door ; 
Edmonton, with memories of John Gilpin, has its market place. 
In the South-east are Blackheath, Eltham and Lee. 
Blackheath, in the old days, gave the same disadvantages 
and opportunities to the South-east of London as Turnham 
Green on the West. It was the haunt of the roadside robber 


and the scene of insurrection feuds. In Restoration days 
22 


ARCHITECTURE OF LONDON 


it took something of a residential character, and achieved a 
general popularity in the early years of the nineteenth century. 

‘“ Among the many venerable remains of the once magnifi- 
cent dwellings of Princes, there cannot be one more deserving 
of notice than that of Eltham in Kent,” says a writer of 1812, 
in the stilted language of his time. ‘“‘ King John’s Palace ” 
is its popular name. ‘The Hall and one of the two bridges 
over the moat is all that remains to-day. Henry III kept a 
public Christmas there in 1270, and to the reign of Henry 
VIII the Palace was the favourite scene for Royal Yuletide 
Festivities. Near the bridge is the weather-boarded “‘ Chan- 
cellor’s Lodging,” and further off, on the north side of the 
Eltham road, are the ‘Tudor buildings of Well Hall Farm. 

Of old Lee little is left but St. Margaret’s Church yard, 
but that a church yard not to be passed lightly by. ‘They 
must have been of substance whose graves were so extra- 
vagantly marked with obelisk, with altar-tomb and funeral 
urn. And here the hunter after epitaphs may fill his note- 
book with many an item, from the platitudinous couplet, 
to the twenty lines or more of ultra-classical verse which 
record the memory of 'Thomas Garnet, Gent. 


* *% * * 

‘*O London town is a fine town,’ but when the tale is 
told there is but little in the telling that speaks of brave and 
bygone days. 

23 








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AILSA TOO ELINTH YAR NaN 


aaron: 


CL SBR 





48 


\Er 


ae | Seta 7 


sR ry 


a 





49 





D0 





51 


whl 


—— 


iy 
\ 
\ 


a Sone 
eae 


LRTI REE REN LEE SAL IA CS TTS 


" q 
: ; = 


a ers 


——— 





52 





53 


ON 
ee 


i: 


anaded 


eee 
LOVE 
i 7 


ame 


| CEM lg Se ag 
OL ASE GR >< BX >< BS 





54 


he 


ml 


pire 


Fo Bled Dt ot Dd Teak bey tok 
went tq 


EDEL ESEREED 1% LEES aa 


ae i 


os = — 
TPP EESOOMRENE. Sake NS bse eh ea 


at ec BTL ST 


—s eno enna a > atts 


> 
= 


- 
1 whe 





wt 
wD 











58 


i 


8S) 
p Se ) 





59 


SRS ena 


RR RIN TRI LTH 


* 
ISELIN ME EES HERAT Tit TD ET I 
S % 

4% Sy 


ERE SET 
aes DN DRT Y 





60 


eas eae aaa sy ¥ rae 


c 


a aaa 


“ 





61 


{ 


} 
= § 


. 


¥" 


” 


ron i 





62 





63 





64 


Oe ee 


ec <i” J 
POS OSL Bey it 








66 








67 


68 








69 


70 











- UN 





